Up until this year, my few panoramas were obtained by cropping single images. Since the advent of digital photography and advanced software, many photographers take a series of photos from left to right, overlapping each by about 30 degrees and have a digital imaging program stitch them together. The obvious advantage of the latter is the extreme wide-angle view and the ability to print larger images while maintaining image integrity.
If you are printing a single cropped image, say up to 2-3 feet long, a good print can be made depending on your lens, use of a tripod, and file size. For my shows, I print the following image, “Seymours Emerging” as a 16×36-inch photo on canvas.

Seymours Emerging, Northport, NY
Here’s another, “Day’s End.” This one I also print on canvas–20×36 inches.

Day's End--Northport Harbor, NY
Getting a sharp image that size also requires “rezzing up,” or increasing the size of an image while retaining it’s print resolution, anything from 220-360 pixels per inch (ppi). One method for achieving a larger image size while retaining sharpness is by using OnOne’s Genuine Fractals, a Photoshop plugin. I’ve been using it for years.
Two years ago while at Point Lobos, California, I created a multi-shot panorama by hand-holding my camera and visually working my camera from left-to-right, overlapping each shot. One of the better panoramas resulted in a misaligned, jagged, stepped image. To salvage it, I severely cropped the top and bottom, losing a lot of good imagery. Plus I had to morph, or stretch the lower left side to fill out the bottom. This is the final image:

Stairway to China Cove--Point Lobos, CA
Having lost a lot of this image and having spent too much time realigning it, I regretted not carrying my tripod. Subsequently, I’ve taken several stitched panoramas with a tripod and discovered two more mistakes. The first was not having my tripod absolutely level. You can’t rely on eyeballing it. You’re still likely to end up with stepped image, The tripod base must be level to ensure a perfectly horizontal image, one you won’t have to crop or skew to salvage.
The other mistake I made, was not keeping the exposure the same for each shot. If you don’t, your tonal continuity will suffer.
“Northport Dock–Looking South” is a panorama where I did not have the tripod level. I thought I did, but it was off slightly. I remember the image “sinking” as I progressed, so I stopped and tried to visually level the tripod. I probably did that two or three times. Notice too, that the exposure varies, particularly evident in the sky. This image is also a good example of where I should have used portrait mode rather than landscape mode. This panorama comprises about 10 shots. I cropped a lot off the lower left side and the upper right side to achieve this image.

Northport Dock--Looking South
During the last two months, I’ve been researching the best ways to ensure a higher percentage of successful panoramas–at least in the technical sense.
Here’s my list to optimize one’s procedure:
- Use a sturdy tripod. Much has been said about choosing a quality tripod, but if your interested, read Thom Hogan’s article, “Serious Support,” on how it is less expensive to choose a quality tripod intially, than to keep trading up until you get one that is suitable for excellent field work.
- Use a ballhead with an independent panning base and a quick-release (QR) clamping system which is Arca-Swiss compatible.
- Make sure the ballhead base is absolutely level. Some photographers have extended a metal plate sandwiched between their ballhead and tripod base to position a small spirit level while they re-arrange their tripod legs. It works, but it is time consuming. The light is changing! The best suggestion, I think, is to get a tripod base leveler, such as AcraTech’s leveler which is positioned just below your ballhead. It has a bullseye bubble level. Manfrotto makes one also. You simply maneuver it until it is level, then tighten. Another option is to replace your center column with a one with a leveler built in. Bogen and Gitzo make one. You can even buy a tripod with the leveler built in–see Gitzo’s leveler (LVL) series. Make sure the base diameter accommodates your ballhead. I tried a Manfrotto center-column leveler but the base of my Arca Swiss Monoball B1 eclipsed the bubble level. Had to return it.
- Level your camera, at least on the left-to-right axis. Some Arca-Swiss compatible clamps have a built-in level. That’s a nice reference. You can also get a 2- or 3-axis hotshoe level which does the same thing. If you level the fore-and-aft plane, you will be acquiring a panorama with the horizon right in the middle–not necessarily advised, from an aesthetic view point. As long as you are level left-to-right, you can raise or lower your aim to suit your visual taste.
- Make sure your camera rotates around the aperture, or “entrance pupil” of the lens. This is referred to as rotating your camera on the nodal point of the lens. Doing so prevents parallax. How do you know where that point is? Some photographers employ a sliding rail, or nodal rail. Before shooting with a particular lens, mount the nodal rail on your ballhead and your camera on the nodal rail. You need two vertical references, one a few feet away from the lens, the other about 15-20 feet away. You can shoot from inside a building looking out. The close vertical reference can be the side of a window For your second reference, perhaps the the side of a door, a telephone pole, etc. Look through your viewfinder and align the the two references. Now rotate the camera as if you were shooting a panorama. If the space between the references opens up, you need to slide your camera on the rail slightly. It’s done by trial and error. When you have rotated your camera through various angles and the two references are always in the same visual position, you’ve got your lens positioned at its nodal point. Now simply note where the camera sits on the rail when using this particular lens. Keep in mind, that a zoom lens changes its nodal point with each focal point. You may want to use a prime lens for your panoramas.
- Shoot in portrait mode. You might as well optimize your vertical range. Your horizontal range is “endless.”
- Shoot in RAW. It is likely your software will not be able to stitch the shots together without doing so.
- Set your camera to manual:
Use one exposure for all shots. Check the exposure reading across your perspective span and use an average.
Set your white balance to accommodate your lighting. Avoid auto white balance.
Use one aperture and one focus point for all shots.Your depth-of-field will otherwise vary between shots which may not result in crisp alignment when your software is overlapping and stitching your shots. Most panoramas will be shot at infinity, but there will be cases when you want to shoot closer spans.
During the coming months I will be shooting some more panoramas using the methods here. I will post them on this blog.
EQUIPMENT REFERENCES
Tripod base levelers:
Dedicated leveling tripods:
Ballheads with quick release (QR) clamps and independent panning base:
Nodal rails (or slides)
Genuine Fractals 6; 1-user
HOW-TO REFERENCES plus extensive array of panorama equipment including great ballheads.
Acratech instructional videos
Kirk Photo
Really Right Stuff
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