Underwater Design--A Look at the Options

Consider your waters, your purposes, and your nature.
First appeared in Small Boat Journal • All rights reserved • © 2006 John Ellsworth

Will your first sailboat have a keel or centerboard? Or both? For some the answer may be simple. For many others, however, it's a tough decision, yet it's one which every boat buyer has to face.

To start, consider the following questions. Their answers should help shape the lens through which you can view and better evaluate for your situation, the various deep- and shoal-draft configurations.

  • Your waters: Is there much or little wind. or is the wind capricious? For the most part, are the waters shallow or deep? And, therefore, do they run a chop or in swells when the wind freshens? Is the bottom rocky, sandy, muddy?
  • Your purposes: Do you intend to sail alone or with company (crew)? Primarily, will you be racing, cruising, daysailing, gunkholing or a combination thereof?
  • Your nature: Do you appreciate scenery? Do you prefer simplicity? Do you get frustrated when things don't work properly, or do you consider a malfunction a challenge to fix? Are your reflexes quick? Do you enjoy expending energy? Do you feel better with more things to do?

Okay, what are we looking at? As you've surely noticed, the major difference between the keel and centerboard is that the keel is fixed to the hull, whereas the centerboard is retractable—either in jacknife fashion, where it pivots into a centerboard trunk within the hull when not in use. or in dagger fashion, where it simply slides in and out (Figure 1). The centerboard is raised and lowered by means of a pennant, which on moderate and larger-sized boats is attached to a hand crank or winch. The daggerboard. usually found on smaller dinghies and sailing surfboards. is lifted and lowered directly by hand.

Figure 1

The chief function of the keel and centerboard is to keep the boat from skidding sideways when sailing across or on the wind. Thus the underfin provides lateral resistance.

A second function of each is to help keep the boat steady on course. In this sense. the fin provides directional stability.

A helpful feature of the keel is that it supports the boat when on the ground (with the addition of buttresses or a cradle if we're speaking of the single keel). Obviously the centerboarder with its board retracted is able to sit lower and upright alone.

Still another advantage of the keel over the centerboard is that it provides stability by housing ballast internally and externally. thus lowering the center of gravity. Although it centerboard may be of cast iron, stability on a centerboarder is provided in other ways.

Basically, stability may be achieved by ballast, a wide beam or a combination of both. Ballast is obtained by the attachment of fixed weight on or in the keel or within the bilges, and by the strategic positioning of crew members. On boats lacking a ballasted keel, a proportionately wider beam (or foundation) is required. and a shifting crew plays a more dominant role. Usually the mast height is lower also.

Deep-draft boats can either be proportionately of heavy or light displacement. Heavier-displacement types generally have well-ballasted, long keels, where the light-displacement craft have less ballasted fin keels. A light-displacement design does forsake some stability but it is offset in the same way that shoal-draft boats, most often of light displacement, achieve stability, again, by relying on a wider beam and strategic crew positioning.

The advantages of stability as achieved by the lower center of gravity induced by it ballasted keel, versus that achieved by a wider beam, are worth mentioning. The former will right herself if knocked down by it strong gust. Here the ballasted keel acts as a righting moment by swinging the boat back to its natural vertical position. A boat without such a keel is not likely to return as spritely, although a boat with a wide beam is initially less apt to heel. To preclude excessive tipping on a centerboarder, the helmsman must be quick to release the main sheet (thus spilling the wind) the instant an excessive gust strikes.

A well-ballasted keel boat, because of her weight, also carries her way better. This means she is more likely to coast when steered upwind or when coming about. Such maneuvering is therefore easier.

A boat of heavier displacement, achieved by a weighty keel, tends to cut steadily through choppy waters, although in doing so, she'll ship solid water. The proportionately lighter, beamier and more shallow boats are prone to slap and splash in choppy waters. These characteristics make a difference in a continual chop. Because of the light boat's quick motion, her crew will tend to tire faster than those aboard it heavier boat.

However, what the shoal-draft centerboarder lacks in stability, she makes up in versatility. Since the board retracts, sailing range is considerably increased by ease of trailering and the ability to sail in waters too shallow for a keel boat. Retractability also allows you to employ some helpful moves.

Trailering has notable advantages. If you are restricted to weekend sailing, and you wish to sail in other than local waters, you can trailer your boat elsewhere. Also, if the boat has bunks, it can serve as a motor home en route. Trailering to a ramp each time you use the boat also cuts out summer mooring fees, but does require more time and effort. Most every sail will involve hooking and unhooking the trailer, rigging and unrigging your boat, as well as launching and hauling it.

The ability to sail in shoal waters is definitely a plus. You'll increase your access to sheltered coves where you can anchor more safely and comfortably in a blow. Gunkholing will provide an opportunity to see, with more detail, the prettiest scenes. and to smell the heady fragrance of coastal flora. And if you wish, you can synchronize with the tides to explore a beach, laying up on the beach at low tide, leaving at high.

Use of the retractable board is also a convenience for getting underway after going aground, which the most experienced sailors may do. If upwind, the boat will be blown toward deeper water when the board is hoisted. If downwind, you can motor away after lifting the board. When you wish to stop for sandwiches. you may even elect to use the board instead of an anchor. In shallow, calm water, while running free with the board nearly extended, turn upwind soon after it hits the bottom, then drop sail. Release the pennant. Enjoy your lunch, and keep in mind whether the tide is rising or failing.

The board may also be used as a when-to-tack sensor. When beating up a channel, hold the pennant in your hand (perhaps with a turn on the pennant cleat) just before you expect to come about. When the board nudges bottom, immediately lift the board slightly, tack, and release the pennant. Needless to say, avoid these tactics where bottoms are rocky.

Because the board can be retracted to different positions, or angles, you can sail more efficiently by reducing the wetted surface. thus drag. at different points of sail. When beating and the possibility of skidding is the greatest, the board should be completely extended. thus fully resisting the lateral tendency. When reaching and the tendency to skid is lessened, the board should be positioned half way, or thereabouts. When running and there is no sidewards tendency, the board should be fully tucked in, eliminating all unnecessary resistance. A board can be partially extended, also, to avoid catching and dragging kelp or seaweed if sailing in such waters.

These are a nice assortment of advantages. However, as a result of the centerboard's design, or make-up, certain characteristics are prone to be annoying. In many boats, the trunk is a hindrance—it's in the way, right in the center of the boat. But, as in most good marine designs, this structure serves a second or third use. It is sometimes employed is a mount for mainsheet hardware and hiking straps. In larger boats, those with the trunk in the cabin, it serves as a pedestal for a dropleaf table.

The gear for pivoting and hoisting the board is occasionally the source of trouble. The pivot pin may work out, or. if the pin and board are two different metals, electrolysis may weaken the pin until it breaks under stress.

Due to vibration underway, I have heard boards chattering at the pin and humming at the pennant. Surely one can get used to these extraneous noises, and even use the pennant hum as a gauge for speed—the faster you sail. the higher the pitch. But on the boats I've sailed with this affliction, I found it annoying, mainly because I identify sailing as being silent with the pleasant exception of nature's sounds. Centerboard chatter and pennant hum are intrusions. Besides that, this noise can be a disadvantage when sailing in a fog. Here silence is necessary so you can detect the fog horns or bells of navigational aids or other boats. Any extra noise diminishes your receptivity.

Although sailing in shoal waters is an asset, it may pose problems if navigational care is not taken. If you hit a rock, the board is more susceptible to damage than the keel. It may bend or the pivot pin may break from the jolt. If you run aground on a "dirty" bottom with the board up. mud or shells may lodge in the centerboard slot. jamming the board closed.

Although less versatile, the keel boat is not subject to any of these harassments. There is no trunk, it runs silently, it's stronger. and it won't jam—all good features.

Clearly, each basic design has distinct advantages and disadvantages. In an attempt to combine the best traits of each design, or to reduce certain disadvantages, several other shoal-draft configurations have evolved. They are hulls with the keel-centerboard; leeboards; and twin, or bilge, keels.

The keel-centerboard, as the name implies, is a long keel into which a centerboard fits (Figure 2). The keel essentially doubles as the trunk. Usually this type has more stability than a centerboarder, but not as much as the full-keel boat.

Figure 2: Keel-centerboard configuration


It has several advantages in addition to the versatility of the pure centerboarder: there is less trunk. if any, above decks; the boat will track better because of the long keel; and, if the board gets jammed the boat can still be sailed. Naturally, the boat can't be beached, and the disadvantages regarding the board mechanism remain.

In the leeboard configuration, a board pivots from each side of the hull amidships (Figure 3). This design foregoes the centerboard trunk and any possible jamming. Normally, with this arrangement, only the leeward board is extended while sailing. Before tacking, the windward board, which becomes the leeward board (and vice versa), is extended. After tacking. the windward board is raised. The most common complaints about leeboards are that they require this extra effort and that they are ungainly looking.

Figure 3: Leeboard configuration


The twin-keeled hull (Figure 4) is one of the most interesting and practical innovations. This type is more common to the British Isles where great tidal range is apt to leave a boat high and dry. In such a case, a boat with twin keels will sit upright when aground.

Figure 4: Twin-keel configuration


I think the twin keel most aptly combines the best attributes of all configurations. It is a stable, shoal-draft design, without the mechanical hassles of the centerboarder. In addition. this design offers other advantages. For example, when heeled, the leeward keel is actually closer to the immersed center of the boat than would be a centerline fin (Figure 5). This certainly seems more efficient for resisting lateral motion.

Figure 5: Twin keeler when heeled

Also, notice that when heeled, the twin-keeler draws more water than when not. This increases her ability to sail to windward. Drawing more water on a heel has another advantage. If you go aground while beating, let out your sails. The boat will swing upright off the bottom.

When heeling, the windward keel may be considered an advantage (although a second keel certainly increases wetted surface). The nearly horizontal keel reduces pitching; a supplemental contribution to comfort.

To illustrate making a choice of an underwater design based on your requirements, let's suppose you'll be sailing on a shallow, expansive area of water such its Great South Bay on Long Island, N.Y. It's consistently shallow, and therefore develops a moderate chop when the winds peak, which is often. For the most part, its bottom is both hard and soft mud with occasional grass.

If your main purpose is to race, you'll probably have a crew aboard and your race course will be mostly consistent. By sailing in the same area, you'll get to know the specific shoals fairly early in the season, either by going aground yourself or by observing others. Nevertheless, I'd say that over a period of time you'll go aground less on a familiar course than if you are continually gunkholing. These circumstances suggest a light-displacement centerboarder. You have ballast with a crew, the boat will be fast. and your groundings will be minimal (as will centerboard jamming).

On the other hand, say you're solo oriented and pensive. You come home from work each day and you just wish to sail in this same type of bay by yourself and relax; to contemplate a day's success and its role in your future; to dream of voyaging to far off places, or simply to bask in the moonlight, view the sparkling effect upon the water, and be wafted by night breezes. With such goals, perhaps you'll want fewer things to do and to go wrong so that your thoughts and appreciation go undisturbed. Maybe a twin-keeled hull would be suitable? These are generally of greater displacement than a centerboarder of the same length. With one person aboard, the boat will sail more steadily in a chop than a lighter craft.

Another circumstance—maybe you'd like to venture beyond the bay through the inlet to a sound or, in the case of Great South Bay, the ocean. If you sail during most of the year in a shallow bay and cruise for a week or two elsewhere, perhaps the keel centerboarder would be appropriate. In deeper waters. an extended board would provide adequate stability. With the board retracted, you could expand your cruising range by sailing and anchoring where you would not see many, if any, fixed-keel boats.

Another type of sailing grounds, such as deep Long Island Sound, suggests another hull. The sound is predominantly swept by light winds. When frequented by heavy winds, however, the sea runs in swells because of its depth. The bottom is generally sandy, but alongshore is rocky. Coves. harbors and inlets abound on both shores. These characteristics point toward a keel boat of light displacement, most likely a fin keel, especially if you'll be racing. If you intend to gunkhole, maybe the keel-centerboarder would be your choice.

These are just a few examples of how your hull choice should be influenced by the waters in which you'll sail, your purpose for the boat, and your personality. Only you, though, can describe your specific requirements, putting the proper value on each.

Illustrations --J. Ellsworth